But wait, there’s more

I left you on the gritty, urban streets of Bankstown, as we made our way from rice paper rolls to pho. Catherine, our tour leader, stopped and told us of other wondrous shops that unfortunately we wouldn’t have time to visit today. (Apart from the fact that most of them were Lebanese shops and therefore would not have fitted in with the Tastes of Asia tour theme – my observation, not hers.) Fortunately in the goodie bags we had been given at the Lily Lan Supermarket, we also received a Bankstown Bites pamphlet and map, detailing all the shops and suggested self-guided foodie tours.

On to the pho! Arguably the best pho in Sydney (so our tour itinerary stated), we arrived at a very busy restaurant, where patrons were queued out the door waiting for the customers inside to hurry down their pho and give up their seats. We however, were ushered inside by a smiling gentleman and directed to our reserved seats.


We had about a fifteen minute wait before our bowls of soup made an appearance. Pho is a Vietnamese staple soup, with each family & restaurant keeping the exact ingredients a secret. Catherine had told us while we were waiting that when the owner went on holidays, he closed the restaurant rather than divulge his secret recipe!

We had the beef pho, though other varieties were displayed on the extensive wall menu (I think they were, there wasn’t a lot of English.) The pho was a steaming bowl of broth, delicately scented with star anise & cinnamon, with very thin slices of raw beef that cook from the heat of the soup.

A blurry bowl of pho

Fresh coriander, basil and bean sprouts were at each table as well as lemon to squeeze on some juice. Bottles of fish, soy and chilli sauce were also provided on each table to add as desired.

Jess enjoying her pho

The pho was delicious. I don’t know that it’s the best I’ve ever had, as previous bowls of pho in Bonnyrigg and Marrickville seemed to have more flavour, though the flavour may well have been enhanced by memory. Certainly the crowds of people eating and waiting to eat here attest to its well-deserved popularity.

Onwards and upwards! We circled around the streets of Bankstown to return to a coffee shop directly opposite the supermarkets we had visited previously - Cafe Nho.

Catherine pointed out the TK Plaza - home to many interesting shops

A table had been set up towards the front of the cafe, with lots of sweet, cool treats to choose from. On offer were mango or coffee gelato and avocado or mango & coconut smoothie, as well as tastes of black sesame, taro or durian ice-cream. The mango gelato was smooth and full of flavour. I was eager to try the avocado smoothie, which was a not unpleasant blend of avocado flavour and sweetness. I tried both the black sesame and the taro ice creams, both of which were sweet and mild in flavour - though very interesting colours. Unfortunately I missed out on trying the durian ice-cream -next time.

Blurry cups of ice-cream: grey-sesame paste, purple-taro, cream-durian

Avocado smoothies

Our generous and amiable host, Eddie Nguyen also offered small cups of an absolutely delicious strong sweet shot of espresso coffee with an equal amount of small pieces of ice as there was coffee. Sipped through a straw it packed a pick-me-up punch of caffeine and sugar that was very much appreciated. Eddie told us that the coffee is roasted on the premises with beans from Brazil, Peru and Costa Rica.

Eddie Nguyen explaining the ice-cream flavours

A very short walk back down the street brought us to the Vien Dong Herbalist. We stood outside the shop while the owner and her daughter poured us a cup of "Cleansing and Moisturising Tea" in small porcelain tea cups. The tea was sweet and I could taste the licorice root. This tea helps the liver function to eliminate toxins as well as other medicinal purposes. We then tried some "Nourishing and Tonifying Tea" of which I didn't enjoy the flavour as much, though it can be used as a dessert by adding rock sugar, or in soup.

Tea tasting

We were given our tea cups as gifts (!) to take home as well as an information sheet about the tea, and Rick also bought some of the "Cleansing and Moisturising Tea" to try at home.


This ended our Bankstown Bites: Taste of Asia Tour! Catherine our guide had already left us in order to welcome the next tour. Josie, her offsider, did a great job escorting us to Cafe Nho and the herbalist and it was a testament to the way the tour was run that we had gone an hour overtime, but were never rushed or felt hurried.

Disappointingly, we couldn't "shop until we dropped" as someone in our car had a prior appointment at home, but we did manage to return to both Best Value and Lily Lan Supermarkets to make some purchases. I had quickly scanned through "The Red Lantern" cookbook at home before coming, to check if I needed any pantry staples and managed to find the "3 Crabs" brand fish sauce that Pauline & Luke Nguyen's mother recommends in the book, amongst a few other things.

My purchases

We also stopped at the butcher for some great bargains, and I was tempted by the different pre-made pastes on offer - fish, chicken, crab and veal to use in fish cakes or other savoury treats at home. Next time!



What a day! The sights, smells and tastes had been a fantastic feast for the senses and a small insight into Vietnamese cooking and culture - and all within a couple of blocks of the sterile, character-less mall at Bankstown that had been my last shopping experience in the suburb. I truly cannot understand why anyone would shop at Woolies or Coles if they had such a vibrant, fresh food precinct as this one nearby.

Happy shoppers - Lee & Tineke

Catherine told us that these tours had been supported by the Sydney International Food Festival, but they were planning to be continued in some form over the coming months. She was going to send the tour participants an email update (which I will pass on to you) , but otherwise check the website for details.

In the interest of honest and open disclaimers, Champagne Hour and The Gang of Five were NOT guests of Bankstown City Council or The Sydney International Food Festival - but felt as if we were, as the value and fun we got out of the day was worth many times the $25 cost of the tour.

Bankstown: Life on the Streets

We (The Gang of Five: Rick (husband), Tineke (mum), Lee (aunty) and Jess (cousin)) arrived a little early for our Bankstown Bites: Tastes of Asia Discovery Tours, so after parking the car in our VIP reserved parking space (fortunately reserved, as everyone in Bankstown was trying to fit into the two free car spaces) we headed up the road for a pre-tour cup of coffee.

Walking up the shared traffic/pedestrian area, we saw police tape being wrapped around two picnic tables and blocking off the entrance to a couple of shops. On the way back to the start of the tour as we realised that one of these shops was the first stop on our itinerary, the forensic teams were now covering the picnic tables in fingerprinting dust and taking photos. Was this taste of gritty urban life Bankstown or Baltimore?

The taped-off crime scene

Once all the tour members arrived, Catherine, our leader relayed the sad story. A local well-known homeless man had died of a drug overdose last night and police were checking over the scene. Our tour would continue however and we were able to use the back entrance to the supermarket whilst the police finished up out the front.

I love back alleys and laneways behind the scenes, they allow you to see the “real” place, not necessarily the well-presented sanitised version. In this case, the back entrance took us through the storehouse of large boxes and wholesale bags of rice into a clean, well-stocked large Asian supermarket - The Best Value Supermarket.

Not the regular customer entrance.

Catherine – our enthusiastic, knowledgeable tour leader showed us some of her favourite items: One was Knorr chicken stock powder – a well-flavoured stock powder used in both Asian and European cooking. Japanese style bread crumbs, larger than regular dried bread crumbs are great when a recipe calls for fresh bread crumbs as they soak up lots of flavour while still retaining their shape. She showed us some different rice wines, most of which can only be used in cooking, but one can be drunk. Place prunes in the wine and heat gently, before drinking the warmed wine and then eating the prune. Excellent (apparently) as an aperitif. Tineke and I thought that this will definitely be one to try out for our Yum Cha whilst Camping experience (a subject of a later, January post).

Our tour guide showing the drinkable rice wine

We had a chance to wander the aisles and check out some of the different wares on offer and decided to put off any purchases until after the tour. The police having finished their business, we were able to leave by the front door, collecting our goodie bags (!) as we went.

What's not to love - 100% percent of new flavour AND a feeling of metroplis

An amazing array of fresh mushrooms

No idea what these "Beamcurd Knots" would taste like.

I don't know if the cool kids would eat these cookies

The Best Value Supermarket goodie bag

Our next port of call was the Nhu Y Juice Bar, a hole-in the wall style juice bar with a plethora of fresh fruit and some more well, interesting, ingredients on offer.



We were offered a smoothie or a “che lanh” (jelly drink), all The Gang of Five opting for the latter to find out what they actually were. We received foam cups filled with a milky looking liquid and some shaved ice and instructed to stir well before drinking.


As you can see stirring the drink yielded some interesting items, some of which we were unidentifiable to us and Catherine came over to help. In the sweet, coconutty flavoured liquid were: pearl barley, taro jelly, lychee, coconut jelly, soy beans, black “grass” jelly, dried long tam, dried prune, sago seeds and lentils. Oh, and seaweed. And yes, that is corn.

Some of the more interesting ingredients

I don’t know if I would have ever requested a drink like that, but I was glad I tried it. The different jellies, beans and fruit gave some interesting (not unpleasant) textures, and the lightness of the coconut milk and ice shavings made the drink not too heavy and very refreshing on a muggy day.

Onward to our next stop – another supermarket, this time the Lilly Lan Supermarket, located back up the street. We walked straight through the shop and out into the back alley, where white tents had been set up with trestle tables and hanging lanterns. We were about to have a demonstration and hands on try of rice paper rolls.

Our genial demonstrator - Duy

Rice paper rolls are a regular item in our house for dinner, so I didn’t think I would learn a whole lot. I was glad to be proven wrong. Duy (pronounced doo-ie) was our easy-going & informative demonstrator, apologising in advance for his shaky hands (side effect of a big night out) and allowing one of our tour to make a misshapen roll before showing us his way (in a nice way).

• Dipping the edges of the rice paper sheet in the bowl of hot water, and moving it rapidly through the water until it is wet and pliable, lay the sheet on the plate (Duy’s tip #1: don’t use paper plates, they will stick to the wet rice paper.)
• Lay the lettuce leaves, mint leaves and coriander leaves along the bottom third of the rice paper sheet. (Duy’s tip #2: don’t buy packets of rice paper sheets if they are cracking around the edges, they are old stock. Otherwise there’s not really any difference between different brands.)
• Lay some strips of thinly slice boiled pork IN FRONT (not on top as I would have done) of the lettuce. Then put some halved prawns, skin side down in front the pork.
• Sprinkle with crushed peanuts and add sliced chilli if desired.
• Turn in the sides of the sheet and then roll tightly, wrapping the last piece under.

The prawns looked pretty good under their rice paper wrapping and we fit a surprising amount of filling in the rolls. Dip in the sauce (hoi-sin, heated with a bit of garlic) and enjoy. And we did. There were enough filling ingredients to feed three times as many people so we did our best to get through a bit of it.

All hands on deck

Tineke showing off her finished product

Duy keeping an eye on Rick's rolling method

While we were eating, Catherine asked Duy to explain some of the lesser-known vegetables that are sold at the supermarket. Duy showed & told us the following:

• Use bok choy in stir-fries or salads – not in soup. Use pak choy in soup – it has a sweeter flavour and breaks down better.
• Mustard greens can be used in cooking, but are more commonly dried & preserved with sugar and chilli and then eaten, similar to Korean’s kim chee.
• Aramanth has pretty green & purple leaves, used in soup. Goes slimy when boiled – good for “cooling the body down”.
• Guava – eat when green & crunchy with salt & chilli. Good for “the morning after”. (This Duy’s starting to sound like a bit of a party animal.)
• Green mango is also good, mixed with sugar, fish sauce and chilli in salads.

Duy explained that Vietnamese people don’t like ripe fruit. They prefer it, as mentioned, green and crunchy. When fruit gets as ripe as a Westerner (ie me) might like it, a Vietnamese person will consider it over-ripe and not use it.

Duy also showed us:

• Taro – used in hot pots or steam boats. Also used to stuff pastries and sweetened in baking.
• Yam – purple flesh used in soup.
• Jacama – a fruit eaten cold, peeled & uncooked. A similar texture to apple or nashi, sweet & juicy.
• Bitter melon – deseed and stuff with minced pork, then boil in soup. Or cut and stir fry with egg.
• Loofah sponge – peel and deseed. Soft textured vegetable used in stir-fries or soups.
• Eggplant – small and white. Often pickled and then served with drinks.

That was the end of our impromptu, but fascinating fruit & vegetable lecture. Duy finished our visit by letting us know that the instructions for rice paper roll construction were in our goodie bags (!) as well as his mobile number & email (in case we got into trouble).

Our Lily Lan Supermarket goodie bag

We left, walking through the now crowded streets on to our next stop – the renowned An Restaurant for a bowl of pho.

To be continued….

A Tour of The Sydney Fish Markets

There’s not much that will get me out of bed at 4.30am. A sick child (maybe), the cat meowing outside our bedroom door (to go outside via our bedroom window) and a visit to the Seafood Markets for a behind the scenes tour with Justin North – 2009 Chef of the Year and owner/ chef of Becasse and Etch.

We arrived there way too early, thanks to fortuitous green lights between Wollongong and Pyrmont. The tours of the Fish Market run all year around, but due to the Sydney International Food Festival, the tour guides were joined by top chefs to give their tips on cooking with seafood.

After we all had a coffee and just-baked pastry, we donned our fetching orange safety vests to go out onto the market floor. A tip from Sophie the marketing assistant to roll up our pants so they don’t get soaked in “fish juice” was appreciated, and perhaps explained her towering heels.

Our tour guide, Matthew, gave us a brief run-down of the history of the market, that now runs on a co-op type basis. We were taken to the "observation deck" where we could see the huge hall with large display screens and hundreds of crates of seafood.


The seafood market is a wholesalers market, selling mainly on behalf of the boats. From what I understand of the way it works is (and I did wander off to take some photos):
There’s a “clock” that whilst displaying the time (running backwards) also runs down a dollar amount. It also displays the seller, the type & grade of seafood and whether the buy is active or not. There’s bidders that bid per crate in this reverse auction. That’s as much detail as you’ll get from me, maybe I tuned out when Matthew said you only need $200 to register as a buyer, but a $10,000 bond is also required and payment is usually required on the day. Unfortunately, we didn’t have much time to stand and watch it. If I’d thought of it, we would have gone back after the tour to soak up some more atmosphere and understand the system better.

We then walked down through the buyers tiered seats to the floor of the markets, to check out the different seafood in the crates. Only Matthew and Justin could touch the fish, which was fine – and they did offer to let us smell it. Justin was very generous in his tips and tricks and I wish I’d brought notepad and paper.


Lots of advice on making stocks – herbs, spices, pernod & wine. And then add cream or extra liquid to use as a soup base. Cook crab shells in the oven before boiling down in stock to get maximum flavor. Advice on skinning eels for “tasty” jellied eel. A delicious sounding way of cooking kingfish steaks by sealing the skin side in a pan, take out of the pan and then put back up skin side up, adding extra butter to brown with garlic and spoon over the slashed skin to add the extra flavours of the butter & garlic.

Matthew (tour guide), Rick, Dan & Justin North (chef)

I was interested to see crates of carp, and asked our tour guide who buys it. It is mostly used in Asian and Eastern European cooking, and Justin looked bit dubious when asked if he had ever used it.

We went to the sashimi section, where the individual fish are auctioned in a regular type of auction. Each fish had a small section near the tail cut out so the fish could be graded. Here Justin mentioned that he buys fish straight from the boat, and will get a lower grade of tuna if he is going to cook it, as it won’t have to be of the same grade as sashimi.


We checked out the crates of fresh and cooked lobsters – I was tempted to pop one in my hand bag. The live lobsters were beautiful colours of blue and green. They looked very quiet in their crates, but when they are tipped out (to check if they are alive or not – dead ones don’t have to be paid for), one lobster grabbed the guy around the wrist and didn’t let go in a hurry.


We finished the tour with a look at some live tanks – containing lobsters and crabs and checked out the oyster shuckers. It was interesting to see each shucker’s personal preference with the best way to open the oysters. They looked beautiful and plump and I was almost disappointed that I don’t like them.


The Seafood Markets has a dozen or more retail sellers, so as it was Rick’s night to cook he decided to do flathead fillets in beer batter – a family camping favourite. We enjoyed a coffee at the Blackwattle Deli with some lovely pastry from the bakery next door. There was also a fruit & vegetable shop, a bottle shop and a kitchen goods shop. All of which (except the bottle shop) were open at 8.30am. There was also a spot outside where you could sit and eat overlooking the bay, but as the elderly Asian guy on our tour said “don’t come here on the weekend – too busy, too busy”.

It was a fantastic, fascinating morning. Matthew the tour guide and Justin the chef combined to create an interesting fun time. I think it would be worth going on the tour of the markets anytime (they run Mondays and Thursdays throughout the year), but I think spending time with a helpful, articulate and easy-going chef made it even more enjoyable.

For dinner that night, Rick made the beer batter – you add the flour (a combination of plain & cornflour) to the beer in a bowl (not the other way around) and whisk it in until it’s of a slighter thicker than cream consistency. We enjoyed our fillets with a salad and a baguette of delicious olive sourdough form the bakery at the Fish Markets. No photos of the cooked result – we were too hungry!

Not the Noodle Markets

For the second time in one week we all piled into the Pajero for the trip up to the big smoke, this time we were off to the Night Noodle Markets part of the Sydney International Food Festival held every year in October. (I read an article yesterday where organisers looked at Sydney's calendar and decided that October had nothing going so decided to create an extra festival - what the?) Anyway I have every year wanted to check out the noodle markets which are held at Hyde Park in Sydney – tonight was it!

Due to a combination of our sacrifice to the parking gods, remembering to bring Nick’s parking sticker and a radical u-turn on Elizabeth St; we managed to get rock star parking on James St at the bottom of the park. Walking up to the beautifully-lit area (See Night-time Floriade, that's how it's done)that has been fenced off for the markets, we realised that this was a big attraction indeed.

The after-work Sydney crowd was already there so we joined the mass of people walking around, looking for a free table and saw with dismay the long queues for food. However, fortune smiled upon us again, as we managed to grab a table, which only had three chairs - not a problem as at this stage we split up – some to mind the table (and snaffle 3 more chairs), some to go and hunt and gather the food.

We had a bit of a quick look at the stalls, where a note of disillusion crept in. Now, I love gozleme, I think it’s a wonderful combination of freshly cooked dough, spinach and cheese, however noodles it is not! Yet here was the ubiquitous gozleme tent at the Night Noodle Markets! Once I got off my high horse, and realised that Night Noodle Markets is a euphemism for any sort of delicious outdoor stall food that the City of Sydney council can find, I started to enjoy myself.

Dan and I were entertained as we waited in the queue (which we only has to stand in for around 20 minutes) by some dancing dragon lions and an amazingly loud drum, before we were able to grab our goodies: a plate of steamed dumplings ($5 for 4), some spring rolls ($4 for 3) and steamed pork or duck buns ($2.50 each). Having no hands left to visit the alcohol tent, I was disappointed I hadn’t ignored the no BYO rule and brought one of the delicious bottles of champagne that a kind friend had given ME for some work RICK did in his garden.

We arrived back at out table, Lauren (the other hunter/gatherer) arriving swiftly behind us with another plate of mixed dumplings and steamed pork bun, also a delicious piece of san choy bow a box of salt & pepper squid and, at last, a box of noodles! They were cooked with a bit of soy sauce, some BBQ pork pieces and beans – delicious!

We ate heartily, finishing off with a delicious, very flaky, not too eggy custard tart. Allira was fascinated by the bats flying around – by fascinated, I mean scared that one would fly straight at her. It was lovely in the park surrounded by huge trees, with the city skyline all around, lots of noise and energy around us.

We walked back to the car looking at the giant photos on display for Art and About (you know, 'cause Sydney has no festivals on in October) which were very interesting. (There was a great one of a woman in her front yard in a little old place in Darlinghurst, and she was standing holding court alongside the larger-than-life photo of herself.)

So, feeling a little lacking in the noodle department, last night being my night for dinner making I decided to make Singapore noodles with chicken, beans and carrots. Very tasty.


Ingredients

• 2 packets fresh Singapore noodles, soaked in boiling water for a few minutes then drained
• 3 carrots, sliced into thin 3cm pieces
• beans, cut into 3cm pieces
• onion, diced
• garlic, chopped
• fresh ginger, grated
• 1/2 chicken breast (all that was in the freezer)
• soy sauce
• sweet chilli sauce
• hoi sin sauce

1. Fry the chicken, carrots, onion & garlic together until cooked.
2. Add the beans and cook a bit more.
3. Add the drained noodles and the sauce (and a bit of water of you want) and combine until there is an even distribution of vegetables and chicken through the noodles (though this won't actually happen until hell freezes over so don't spend too much effort on it).

As we had a guest (hi Zanko!) I though I would impress with dessert as well. And to be honest, the above amount fed 7 people - there were no seconds.

A newly re-discovered old family favourite of ours is caramelised pineapple. This is the simple version (minus the flaming rum and toasted coconut - for when you're really trying to impress!)

• 1 fresh pineapple, peeled and cut into chunks
• brown sugar
• butter
• ice-cream

1. Coat the pineapple chunks in brown sugar. (This can be done before dinner)
2. Heat the butter in a large fry-pan.
3. Drain (save the juice!) and add the pineapple to the pan.
4. Cook for awhile until warmed through and starting to caramelise.
5. Add the drained juice.
6. Have a lengthy discussion over whether the ice-cream will be better under or over the pineapple.
7. Serve as requested, or however you think it will be best.
   
   
   
   
   Enjoy!
   
   

The Night Noodle Markets are on every night this week, up to and including Friday night from 5.00-9.30pm.